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Post by dmar836 on May 23, 2016 9:47:33 GMT -6
I have been looking for an alternative to the standard spruce "T" material for stringers. My frame came with some pretty beat up aluminum screen frame-type material also some thin "hat" flashing that is just too big and sharp. I bought some modern stuff with the bead channel and not only is it a bit difficult to bend smoothly(I could do it) but it is too short. Slicing worked only marginally and to get the 14' lengths requires a bulk truck order of > $500. The spruce material also requires a truck shipped order in the lengths I need(10'). I've read quite a bit about alternative woods - Douglas Fir, White Pine, Hemlock, etc. so could make my own but I still like the idea of aluminum scavenged from another purpose. Splicing, ripping, and routing my own would be fun but time consuming. Chasin' Rainbows had what appeared to be C-channel as side stringers. Maybe some type of light screen door channel? I have access to a few 10' brakes so could modify or fab metal as well. If I could find the screen frame material in longer lengths, I could make it work. Anything off the shelf locally would save lots of $$ and time. Any ideas? Dave Kansas City
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Post by Supervee on May 23, 2016 11:23:56 GMT -6
On my last ultralight biplane, the 'Zipster', I used 10' long pieces of aluminum angle I found at home depot the angle web thickness was about .040, and the web chord was about 3/8"…On long spans unsupported it sagged in a tad, from fabric pull…Next time I would use the 1/2" web stuff….
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Post by dmar836 on May 23, 2016 12:39:42 GMT -6
Thanks. At the hangar now. I returned most of the screen frame material but still had a few. I opened the vise and gradually bent it, crushing in the bead part little by little along a length. It actually takes a reasonable curve. Joining it had not been the best but I had used plastic as a tongue, riveting and epoxying it into the joined ends. It not only was elastic at the joint but took on an angle there due to rivet pressure. I think I'll try some 6061 scraps I have and just epoxy them in. If it stays straight at the joint(it should, hopefully) I can position that part in a straight area. I might also lace them to each other(like ribs) so they are less likely to twist and wonder. If this fails on the bottom I'll pull it all off and start over. Dave
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